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@GladiatorX_06 wrote:
@EA_Groguet @cm_caseyringley Appreciate the opportunity to be able to have direct contact with the devs. My question to you Casey is whether you could give advice on how to approach making a set-up. What things should I change first and also when i make changes, how many laps should i run to test them? Thanks!👍
David's guide from last year which ScarDuck shared is still very much relevant. Mario's post with that video is also an excellent reference point. I'll add a few notes for differences in tuning ranges this year.
Differential: Major improvements to the model have led to a wider tuning range this year, now going from 10-100% locking. These numbers don't directly translate from F1 23, so use the tuning presets as a starting point. For instance, 50% 'lock' in F1 23 was effectively like 0% lock (fully open diff) in F1 24. For F1, the number you set is now a target for how much wheel speed difference the active differential will try to remove. For F2 and their clutch-type differential, it is a fraction of the input torque which applies locking across the axles. In general, more on-throttle lock means more rotation and power oversteer on corner exits. More off-throttle lock means more stability and understeer on corner entry.
Front ride height: Tuning UI values are approximately the ride height at each axle in mm. 25-35 is a safe value at the front for bumpy tracks, but lower is better for downforce if you're ok with running a stiffer suspension. Too low and you risk scraping the plank, losing control of the front tyres, and/or losing top speed while dragging the floor.
Rear ride height: Very dependent on the track. You generally want the rear low at high speed for good aero and can get there multiple ways. I'm a fan of running it higher and softer - maybe 70-75mm with lower spring stiffness - for good mechanical grip at low speed while sitting in the aero sweet spot during cornering. The compromise here is you tend to have higher aero drag due to increased chassis rake. Running lower at 50-60mm with much stiffer springs can work well too. The handling will be sharper at the limit with less traction out of slow corners, but you will have more aero performance on average.
Tyre pressure: Lower is better for grip...Pirelli set minimum pressures and not maximum for a reason. Generally the faster the circuit, the higher the tyre pressure you will want to run. This can be especially useful for managing tyre temperatures as higher pressure means less flex in the tyre, less rolling resistance, and therefore less heat generated.
- ScarDuck149 months agoLegend@cm_caseyringley Now I’m falling in love 😍. But seriously thankyou for this Mr Ringley👍
- 9 months ago@cm_caseyringley many thanks Casey or Mr Ringley as @ScarDuck14 calls you😁
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