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This is why I bang on about the game settings such as POV and FFB wheel rotation: Because on last year’s game mario tested RRRR CCCC LLLL And found little to no difference. And around that time I watched Marcels camera settings video and tried his settings and instantly found myself lapping 2ish seconds a lap faster on virtually every track. And also just prior to that @BarryBL posted his basics thread which included his controller settings and found they helped riding kerbs. So every track Ii spend more time during practice i spend abit pff time fine tuning my camera and ffb settings
- ScarDuck143 years agoLegend@Lurtz_Uruk-hai Offset tv pod.. FOV -12 lateral -12 height -12 angle -12. It may just be me and a ocd thing. But I find Matching height and angle to my FOV value feels better balanced. FOV depends on size off TV/Monitor and how far your eyes are from the screen. If you search you tube for FOV there are tons off videos explaining why FOV setting is important in racing games/sims.
But In this game around -10 is in the general ball park.
I have a 55inch and I sit about 1.5 - 2 metres- Nuvolarix3 years agoSeasoned Ace
Hello, then on the setup we need to make a more general speech in my opinion.
First of all, you can really work on the setup only after a few hours of play, after having refined the driving for that circuit. Sure in the meantime you can make some changes, but until you are close to your limit, changes to the setup are not really noticeable. Sometimes a change is more evident, objectively (eg 0-0 vs 50-50 in Monza) or subjective (based on your driving style), other times less so. Sometimes you even have to go back because what seemed faster in learning can become slower once you get to the top, and vice versa.
Once you have reached a good level of driving on a specific track (only then) it is time to seriously put a hand to the setup. At that point we can say that the most noticeable changes in F1 22 are given by the
1) ride height -- it gives the level of downforce front/rear, and it's the main source of downforce this year, (as an effect the more the car is low at the rear and high at the front, the faster the car is);
2) front/rear wings and the following balance.
All the other settings more or less is to refine the balance you have found and improve your personal feeling with the car. This does not mean that one setting is good and another is not, it is always a question of compromise. For example, a 6-2 anti-roll bar can give you a better insertion of the front, especially in fast corners, conversely a 1-4 gives you a better ability to turn especially in tight corners. And it's possible that at the end of the lap the time is very similar, because pros and cons_ in the different parts of the track.
Having saying that is true that a single parameter modification has less impact than in the past games because the downforce level is mainly given the ride height.
Regards,
Nuv- 3 years ago@Nuvolarix Hey!
I really liked your reply! I'm probably too inconsistent but it does make sense that I should really find my limit, consistently, before changes make noticeable impact. I do have one question though.. ride height.
I am well aware about the real life implications of the new regulations, are you saying it works similar in the game because you know that it does, or because it should? "Meta" time trial builds at the beginning were around 3-5 ride height but quickly shifted into things like 11-7. That + my experience tells me that in the actual game eide height doesn't have much of an impact on downforce, although it obviously should
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