New Wheel Help

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@Cpayne32 wrote:

Not sure where to post this but looking for some advice. I recently (yesterday) upgraded my setup from a Thrustmaster 248 to a Fanatec GT DD wheel base with the f1 2.0 esport wheel. For the pedals im using the CSL pedals with the load cell brake.

Since running the new wheel ive lost a significant amount of pace. Around canada i was running on AI difficulty of 106 and was on pace with others but now im running at 80 and just about on pace

Does anyone have any tips on wheel settings or tips with using a load cell brake as its my first time with it. Im on PS5 if you needed to know

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Hey @Cpayne32, it will take a while to get used to the DD and LC.

I’m away from my rig atm, but will report back with my wheel and LC settings. If you look on the Fanatec forum, they provide a decent starting point for 22 - I think I used these as my starting settings and adjusted once I had got read about and got familiar with the various wheel settings: https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/26587/f1-22-playstation-fanatec-recommended-settings

The LC setup is pretty important. Firstly make sure the pedals are well secured. 2nd, make sure you use the right dampers for your leg strength - you can mix these up to suit. 3rd, make sure you set the BRF setting to the right value so you can achieve 100% brake force fairly easily - you can set and check this in the PC software. 4th, make sure you set the Min input value in the PC software - if you rest you foot on the brake like I do, you will need to set the Min value with your foot on the brake so it doesn’t register an input. 5th, trail braking. 

Happy to field any other questions 🖖🏽

⬆️ 

Thank you everyone for your help. I will have a look at these videos and ideas when i hop online tomorrow 

I would also recommend to use 310/320 wheel rotation

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@Cpayne32 wrote:
@Monzstar83After a fight to figure this out i managed to make the wheel changes. How do you see what the best BRF setting is. The default for the wheel was 50 but ive stuck it too 100

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So BRF is the setting that defines the minimum force required to hit 100%. I think at 100 you need to be able to max out the load cell - 90kg of force IIRC.

Your setup will depend on your “braking leg” strength and the feel you want i.e. stiffness and travel. LC work on force not travel. So it’s important you can reach 100% braking force. BRF defines the force required to hit 100% braking, and Dampers define brake pedal stiffness and travel.

I would use a set of dampers that give you the best feeling of stiffness vs pedal travel as a starting point. Then jump on the pc software so you can set the BRF to be able to hit 100% brake force then test it in TT - you can set BRF on the wheel as well but I prefer the software cause you can see the brake %  through the pedal and travel as you apply force. 

Main thing is to be able to hit 100% brake force without getting too worn out/ tired over time. I spent some time setting it up as described and then jumped into TT to test. I fine tuned/ adjusted dampers and BRF from there, jumping into TT to test, going back and forth a few times to get my perfect setup.

In the end I used a combination of 85 and 65 dampers and set BRF to 40. I like a bit of travel, but it’s all personal preference. 

Hope this helps 🖖🏽

P.S. am away from my setup as I got called away on business but will get you more specifics with regards to my setup at the end of the week if you need. Main thing I would say is read the manuals as it gives you an understanding of all the settings (https://fanatec.com/eu-en/faq/details/id/36). It can be quite confusing at the start but you’ll soon figure it out - the other part of it is the in-game settings. It did take me a while to fine tune all the settings - keep with it, you’ll get there in the end! One other thing to note (I found anyway) was that with the DD - for some tracks like Monaco, and without changing any settings, the steering felt heavier compared to Bahrain. I assume this is because I use a higher DF setup and that is being relayed through the wheel.

I use the in-game hud on pylon cam (or add it to the cockpit view) to see in game brake level vs foot pressure while driving. You can drive w the the wheel setup open on BRF and use the funky switch to adjust while on track.

Only in-game brake setting of interest might be liniarity if you want more range at the low end. Saturation is an amplifier, not needed

The Wheel force seems to be some combination of speed and downforce, along w suspension movement but needs work imo - at zero speed on track the wheel spins w no resistance - huh?