Switching from Controller to Logitech G920!
I've been playing this game since F1 2016. I was pretty casual about it at first and never wanted the clutter of a wheel. But I finally gave in and just got a G920 and it is AWESOME it was like playing for the first time again! So much more immersion and realism when using a wheel, even if it is entry-level, it felt much more like I was there.
So I decided to strictly play F2 now so I don't get frustrated with not matching the times I set in F1. Right off the bat, I was in the 50-60% on the leaderboard. That's ok I guess as I'm using a tv tray and the pedals are squirming around on the carpet. But I was anywhere from 25-40% on F1 with a controller so I have a little catching up to do and a wheel-stand to purchase.
The positives. Steering, especially around long corners is so much smoother. That tap, tap, tapping L or R on the controller stick was so frustrating, so easy to be a fraction off in the timing of those taps which ruins a corner. And hairpins, I'm a million times better getting around the Monaco hairpin with a wheel.
The negatives. Braking is hard. Getting good on the brake pedal seems like it will be key. The other thing I'm disappointed in is that I don't feel anything in the wheel to give me a hint that I'm about to lose the rear. I could feel the controller start to vibrate just before losing it and sometimes I was able to lift or feather and save it. But on the wheel, I don't feel a thing, car just spins. It's like you just have to know the limit and be careful on the gas pedal.
Any advice on settings so I could get some feedback and better sense a spin before it happens? I currently have ABS on / traction control off. Any other tips for adapting to a wheel?
Also the power jack under the base of the wheel feels a bit loose and wobbly. Is that normal?
Get that rig set up properly! Haha specially the pedals, set them right so that neither the pedals nor your chair skids away when braking. That will work wonders on your consistency.
Potentially impopular opinion: Logitech brakes get flak online for being too stiff. Indeed they are, and, for how much I love kicking soft or not-so-soft bellies (and the occasional elbows) in other hobbies of mine, even I had a sore leg while getting used to it in the first days. It uses potentiometers to gauge the braking input, meaning it reads pedal travel and translate that into braking in-game, while high end pedal sets use load cells, working similarly to a real car: it's the amount of force you press the pedal with that will determine how much braking force the calipers apply to the wheels - no matter how much pedal travel you got.
Those high end pedals? They're graded to 90-100kgf. Meaning of you use it on the full scale, it needs 100kg of force to register 100% braking input. Obviously that's adjustable and a good chunk of users with 100kgf load cell brakes will set their gear to 60-80kgf max, but you get the gist.
Never measured it myself, but Logitech G29/G920 brake pedal is said to take 20kgf to top out. That's way less in comparison.
Even though it is position-based, so not as great of a tech (it's easier to be consistent on force-based pedals), on the longer run I personally believe you're better off getting used to the stock pedal. You'll absolutely need to brace the pedal set properly as I said, and it does take time, but I would not be able to trail brake properly if I were to map the clutch pedal for braking or the like like you see people recommending online 🙃
Unfortunately the FFB on a wheel is subpar on this game. There's no way to replicate the fun, engaging, informative and actionable feedback it has on a controller. I play mostly on a PS5 and I often find it more enjoyable to play on the Dualsense than on my wheel.
If I'm to get my wheel stand out, it's most likely to play ACC or even GT7.
If the subjects interests you, check this video by Aris:
He's the main physics and handling designer for ACC. Mind you, this video is long as Aris is thorough, but it's only the first part that's pertinent. He goes over the numerous ways you can design the FFB in a racing game. As it stands, there's no proper fix for the lack of actionable information on what's going on with your rear axle.
Actually, there is: headphones. The audio design by Brad Porter is commendable in F1 22, even more so if you switch to the Driver/Helmet mix - don't recall the name. People give the franchise a hard time about how the engine doesn't always sound like the TV broadcast, but the audio feedback is solid! With time you'll adapt to have the game audio cueing you in on your rear axle traction situation instead of your hands.
Pinging some helpful wheel fellas: @TotosHeadphones @dancrodrigues
