New Zealand wet stages have very strange and inconsistent grip.

interesting..... thought it was just me having a bad day with the 95 impreza, seemed very odd o drive, back end letting go for no real reason, slipping off the road on slow corners and crazy oversteer...... nice to know its not just me ha ;)

Yes, I have just tested this. It's an old bug that was patched back then, but is now back.

https://forums.ea.com/discussions/wrc-technical-issues-en/rally-oceania---strange-handling-in-wet-stages/8392709
https://steamcommunity.com/app/1849250/discussions/0/3954784199568469263/

I drove the Oceania Taipuha track (4.4 km) 4 seconds faster in wet compared to dry. (Ford Puma Rally1 2024.) I even turned up the braking power from 2460 (default) to over 3000 for wet gravel and was able to drive well without ABS.
It also feels like driving on asphalt in terms of steering.

Is it enough if I leave it here or do I have to register the bug somewhere?

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Did a few stages with my Club in Oceania, most of them on wet surface, we all had the same experience (in S1600). Fantastic grip for a few kms, then grip suddenly falling off a cliff. Feels like tyre degradation was pushed to 1000% and I was driving on slicks after half a stage, massive understeer in slow corners. Every other player in the Club (~15) reported very strange grip behavior. Please fix it!

I confirm.. with version 2.2.1 in Oceania and with wet surface, the car has a very strange and unrealistic behavior. Maybe it's better to move the discussion to the "technical problems / bugs" section.

My normal brake force starting point for modern cars (from wrc 1997-2011 class onward (well excluding Rally3+Rally4+R2+S1600 at least) on gravel(+Scandia&Sweden snow) is minimum 3000, even for wet gravel any location starting with this.

Modern rally cars have lots of grip between tire and road surface so lock-ups won't happen if normally when braking you ease of the brake as speed/momentum reduces and by doing this you prevent lock-ups fully (this is how u brake in asphalt track racing cars too even if there's abs option like GT3, always easing of the brake as speed/momentum drops).

For asphalt(dry+wet+icy) my starting brake force is currently 4000.

If there's some lock-up happening I always try to fix it first with brake bias change. Front locks up too early vs rear end etc I'll be moving bias like 67% -> 66, 65 etc until good. If I'm unable to fix it with this then I'll start reducing brake force by 100 at a time unti lgood (3000 -> 2900 -> 2800 etc) and check brake bias again if it works where I left it (and do changes to it if needed).

To TheJohnbags

I don't know your setup in the car but when u describe rear letting go(aka car is oversteering) when lifting the throttle then this can happen because of car setup. If u are using stock setup is just same thing for every single gravel location, irl drivers do not use same setup in NZ(if they would drive there) and in Greece and in Latvia. It's always slightly different to suite roads and conditions etc (they do testing before events to get setup right).

In Differential setup there's preloads Front and Rear options (it can be also other things in setup that causes oversteer but these preloads are ones specifically for throttle lift-off handling)

examples: 
1. if preloads are set F 60.00 and R 60.00 handling can be quite balanced on throttle lift-offs.
2. If preloads are set F 60.00 and R 100.00 handling can be quite oversteering(+unstable) on throttle lift-offs.
3. If preloads are set F 60.00 and R 30.00 handling can be very understeering(but stable) on throttle lift-offs.

Overall higher preloads increase amount engine brake -> slowing down effect is stronger when lifting the throttle.
My Front preload value 60.00 is based on average speed of the unique roads(long stages on dry both ways ) in location which is over 125km/h (77.7mph) in NZ with Rally1 Hybrid class cars.
(my calculation formula: 125kph divided with 200kph  = 0.625 -> so front preload 60.00 for starters, for fastest gravel location Latvia -> front preload 70.00-75.00, for slower gravel locations like Mexico+Greece -> front preload starting with 40.00 or even just 30.00)

Like if wanting less engine brake you set front preload lower like 30.00 and then u set Rear Preload value to suitable strength (like 0.00-100.00)  based on how much throttle lift-off oversteer/turning u want/need. Every car is an individual so rear preload can need to be different than in some other car to have same effect to handling.

Starting Oceania setup for Rally1 Hybrid Puma 2024 could be like this:
- Alignment: Front toe 0.00 (or +0.10 <-> +0.50), camber -1.50 / Rear toe 0.00 (or +0.10 <-> +0.50), camber -1.25 (or -1.00 <-> -1.50)
- Brakes: Force 3000 (or 3300-2400), Bias 67% (or 55-75% whatever works best when testing), Handbrake max right
- Differential: Front driv 30%, brak 25% (or 20%), preload 60.00 (or 50.00) / Rear driv 35-40%, brak 30% (or 20-35%, preload 70.00 (or 40.00-100.00)
- Gears: top speed with 1st gear on flat road 70-80km/h (43-50mph) and top speed on 5th gear minimum 200km/h (124.3mph) or more 210km/h (130.6mph), mid gears 2-4 with slightly increasing gaps
- Damping: Front Slow +1, Fast +2 (or +3), Div 0.65mps (or 0.52-0.26mps), Rebound +0 (or +1) and same values to Rear damping
- Springs: Front rh lowest/middle/highest, spr 88, arb 10 (or 0<->20) / Rear rh (same as in front), spr 88-80, arb 15 (or 0<->40 etc) <- adjust rear arb (+front arb) if need [overall higher arbs reduce lateral bodyroll -> increasing stability, but this can reduce cornering grip]